#23 Quilotoa & Cotopaxi – I wanna get high!

Nah, not what you’re thinking. I’m talking serious altitude, or at least higher than I have ever been in my life so far.
About 70km south of Quito lies a less than beautiful city called Latacunga. While not a place worth visiting itself, it is perfectly located between the two places I wanted to see: the Quilotoa crater lake and Cotopaxi, Ecuador’s second highest mountain and one of the world’s highest active volcanoes. Staying in Latacunga allowed me to explore these places without paying USD 50 or more each for a guided tour. Instead, I was able to use public transport.

In order to get there, I headed out of my Quito hostel at 6am in order to catch an early city bus to Quitumbe, the city’s main transport terminal. My plan was to get another bus there which should have taken me straight to Latacunga. Unfortunately though, I didn’t account for the public holiday that was going on. The queue in front of the ticket booth for my destination was bizarrely long and would have meant that I had to wait for a later departure. But it didn’t take long until I got approached by a man hauling passengers for his taxi. About fifteen minutes later, me and three Peruvians sat in the guy’s car and were headed for Latacunga. The USD 10 for the ride were more than I would have paid for the bus, but at least I would be able to keep up with my timetable. Another two hours later I left my hotel in Latacunga and walked to the local bus terminal.


The trip up to Quilotoa took approximately two hours and cost me USD 2.50.
A short walk goes from the dropoff point straight to the crater rim. The rest you better see by yourself.




After taking in these stunning views I started my descent to the lake. A dusty and steep path which pedestrians share with mules carrying exhausted or simply lazy visitors back up leads down the crater. At the bottom you could rent kayaks to paddle around for a bit. I didn’t do that. The way back up wasn’t as hard as advertised; it took me a little under 40 minutes, although the official guidance was between one and a half and two hours.

For the really keen hikers there is a trail around the whole crater. It takes around six hours to get back to where you started. I didn’t quite understand the appeal of the hike which basically offers the same view onto the same lake. For six hours! As in most situations in life, sitting down and drinking a beer seemed like the better thing to do.


The next morning I once again showed up at the bus terminal in Latacunga and caught a bus towards Quito. I asked the bus driver to drop me off at the entrance of Cotopaxi National Park. The weather wasn’t good and the volcano itself was temporarily closed due to its recent activity. Nevertheless, I got a ride up to the trailhead. From there we started our hike up to the refuge at 4’864masl. That high up, hiking becomes quite a challenge. The views were totally not worth it as everything was wrapped in thick fog. I didn’t see the slightest bit of Cotopaxi. But hey, I got a coca leaf tea to warm me up and a souvenir stamp in my passport. Additionally, it was the highest point I have reached so far. Great success!


Not so much volcano there…


After these cold heights I was ready for a change of climate zone. I headed to Montañita and Olón for some surfing an relaxing. And before leaving Ecuador to Peru, I also spent a few das in Cuenca; a lovely colonial style city.

While I had a good time in all of these places, my next post will take you to Peru.

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